10 thoughts on “1947 General Electric Vortalex fan-Full restoration

  1. My son rescued this model, GE fan (12”) from
    a dumpster and I’ve just started tear down for restoration. Looks like yours is the 16” model – very similar but no capacitor.
    I’d planned on going black with polished blades but yours is gorgeous! Could you tell me the brand/shade of the gold paint you used?

  2. I came here to find out how that fan wired up but mine is not quite that old. The motor on this one has eight wires with no capacitor or transformer. I guess I should have taken pictures.

  3. Very impressive work. I have the exact fan that I’m partially restoring for a friend. Could you please tell me where you got the power cords and the grommets for them. Thanks for the help.

        1. Great, thanks for the quick reply. This is my first restore and clearly you have experience in these, could you tell me if I should use maybe like a spray lacquer over the parts when I’m done. I not doing a strip down like you did I’m just cleaning it up and keeping the patina, etc. The person that I’m doing it for wants to use it on her porch in South Florida so I need to do some type of protective coating to keep it from deteriorating anymore. You have any suggestions. Again, thanks for the help.

          1. Chris,

            If your 1947 fan has an original oil-based paint finish, you’ll want a clear coat that adheres well to oil-based surfaces and provides long-term protection. Here are my sugestions:

            1. Oil-Based Clear Coats (Best Choice)
            Rust-Oleum Clear Protective Enamel – Designed for metal, durable, and available in gloss, semi-gloss, and matte.
            Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane (Oil-Based) – Adds UV protection and moisture resistance.

            2. Synthetic Lacquers (Not Water-Based)
            Watco Lacquer Clear Wood Finish (for metals as well) – Dries fast but might need light scuffing for adhesion.

            Key Considerations:
            Test First – Apply a small amount in an inconspicuous area to check for compatibility.
            Prep Surface – Clean with mineral spirits and lightly scuff with fine sandpaper (320-400 grit) if needed for adhesion. ( sanding may not be needed if you want to keep the patina like you said. )
            Avoid Water-Based Polyurethane – It may not adhere well to oil-based paint.

            That should help it hold up well for many years to come, and keep the original finish well protected.

            Best of luck on your project, I bet your friend will love it!

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